![]() ![]() The underlying issue in all of this is that the difficulty of the back flattening task depends enormously on the depth and area of metal to be removed. Silicon carbide is pretty commonly available for car repair use (and it cuts very well initially) - which probably explains how it so often gets used.Īnother well proven option for flattening chisels is a powder abrasive over a steel lapping plate - i've no experience of it. TBH Bill i think you're going to run through significant quatities of almost any paper you care to mention if there's a decent amount of metal to remove. Still takes some practice and a sure hand. I use a foot operated switch so I can use both hands to place the chisel flat on the platen before it starts. ![]() 35mm) I've used the Veritas powered system to flatten backs. It takes a very fine touch to drop on flat every time and avoid dubbing the edge, and gets slow on wide western pattern (non hollow back) chisels unless they start out very close to flat. Especially when getting close to the edge. I've had very good results back flattening and cleaning up bevels on the top surface of a WorkSharp using the stock 80 or 120 grit AL Ox discs or 6in x 1/2 in 80 or 180 grit diamond coated lapidary discs - the low 500rpm and small dia mean that heating is manageable provided care is taken to work in very short bursts (few sec) cooling in between in water. Derek Cohen has a write up on using a belt sander on his site. Sanding belts over a flat platen work and are quite a bit faster, but as you suspect overheating is a very real risk that requires very careful handling to avoid. ![]() +1 that silicon carbide dies very quickly on metal.Ī coarser self adhesive paper as Ron says seems to do the business - some have written of having great success working manually on a long strip of 80 grit stuck down on a long strip of granite worktop or the like. ![]()
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